Craftsmanship
The Craft of Handmade Rugs…
Carding & Spinning
​
To card wool refers to the process of preparing raw wool fibers for spinning by using specialized tools called carders. Carding is an essential step in the production of rugs… Here how it works
Gathering raw wool: The process starts with raw, unprocessed wool, which is typically sheared from sheep. This wool may contain impurities such as dirt, grease and tangled fibers.
Carding tools: Carders are hand held tools used for this process. The consist of two flat wooden paddles with wire or metal bristles. One carder is held in each hand.
Carding action: The wool is pulled apart and placed in one of the carders. The other carder is drawn across the wool repeatedly, with the wire bristles catching and aligning the wool fibers. This action helps to separate and straighten the tangled fibers, remove impurities, and create a consistent and smooth texture.
Alignment of Fibers: As the carding process continues, the wool fibers become aligned in the same direction. This alignment makes it easier to spin the wool into yarn.
Rolling in to a batt or Rolag: Once the wool is sufficiently carded. It can be rolled into a rolag ( a roll of carded wool). This makes it easier for spinners to draft and spin the fiber into yarn
The best Nepalese spinners are able to produce yarn in various thicknesses to create rugs with higher or lower knots counts
Spinning carded wool into yarn in Nepal, like In many other regions with a rich textile tradition, is a traditional and skillful process that has been passed down through generations. Here’s a description of how this process is typically carried out in Nepal:
The process begins with raw wool, which has been cleaned, carded, and aligned into a uniform and fully mass using carding tools.
A traditional hand - operated spinning wheel, often called a “charkha” in Nepal, is used for spinning the wool into yarn. This is typically made of wool and features a spindle, flyer, and bobbin.
The carded wool is carefully attached to the spindle of the spinning wheel. This can be done bt drafting a small section of the carded wool and attaching it to the spindle’s hook.
The spinner begins to rotate the spinning wheel’s handle, which turns the spindle. As the spindle spins, the attached wool fivers twist together, forming a thin stand of yarn, the spinner uses their other hand to control the tension and thickness of the yard being created. By adjusting the tension and feeding more wool as needed, they can create a consistent yarn. I can tell you from experience it it no easy task.
As the yarn is spun, it is wound onto the bobbin of the spinning wheel. The spinner carefully guides the yarn onto the bobbin, ensuring it is wound evenly.
Depending on the desired yarn thickness and characteristics, the spinner may choose to ply the yarn. Plying involves twisting together two or more strands of spun yarn in the opposite direction. The can create a thicker, stronger, and more balanced yard.
Once the desired length of yarn is spun and plied( if Applicable). The spinner carefully removes it from the spindle and winds it into a skein or hank. The skein is tied at intervals to prevent tangling.
Dyeing
Drying dyed yarn in Nepal is a crucial part of the rug making process. Proper drying not only sets the color but also ensures that the yarn is in the best possible condition for weaving, resulting in high quality and vibrant rugs that are characteristic of Nepali craftsmanship.
In many rag making communities in Nepal, including those in rural areas, the preferred method of drying the dyed yarn is to lay it out in the sun. The warm, dry climate of many Nepali regions is conductive to sun drying. The yarn is laid on a clean surface such as a field or courtyard or hung on a line, where they can receive direct sunlight and proper ventilation. To ensure even drying and prevent tangling, the skeins of yarn are spread out with sufficient spacing between them.
The yarn is left to dry in the sun, but it requires periodic monitoring. Artisans may flip the skein periodically to ensure that all sides of the yarn receive equal exposure to sunlight. Proper monitoring helps prevent uneven drying and ensures that the color sets uniformly.
The drying time can vary depending on factors like the thickness of the yarn, the local climate, and the specific dye used. Thicker yarn may take longer to dry. Its critical to avoid rushing this step, as proper drying helps set the color and ensures the yarn Is ready for weaving.
As the yarn dries, artisans may inspect it for any irregularities, such as color inconsistencies or spots. If any issues are detected, they can be addressed before weaving.
​
The dying process typically starts with the selection the type of yarn to be dyed, which can be made from various materials such as wool, silk, or cotton and linen. The fiber used will effect the color.
The Dye Master is a critical member of the rug making family, he supervises the matching of colors and the preparation of the dyes.
Once the colors are made, the process involves dissolving the dye in water to create a dye bath. The yarn is immersed in the dye bath and the dye molecules bond with the fibers of the yarn to impart color. The artisan and Dye Master carefully controls factors such as temperature and dye concentration to scheme the desired color depth and evenness.
After dyeing, the dyed is typically rinsed thoroughly to remove any excess dye. This helps to prevent color bleeding and ensures the yarn is safe to use.
The process requires patience and precision.
Drying
Drying dyed yarn in Nepal is a crucial part of the rug making process. Proper drying not only sets the color but also ensures that the yarn is in the best possible condition for weaving, resulting in high quality and vibrant rugs that are characteristic of Nepali craftsmanship.
In many rag making communities in Nepal, including those in rural areas, the preferred method of drying the dyed yarn is to lay it out in the sun. The warm, dry climate of many Nepali regions is conductive to sun drying. The yarn is laid on a clean surface such as a field or courtyard or hung on a line, where they can receive direct sunlight and proper ventilation. To ensure even drying and prevent tangling, the skeins of yarn are spread out with sufficient spacing between them.
The yarn is left to dry in the sun, but it requires periodic monitoring. Artisans may flip the skein periodically to ensure that all sides of the yarn receive equal exposure to sunlight. Proper monitoring helps prevent uneven drying and ensures that the color sets uniformly.
The drying time can vary depending on factors like the thickness of the yarn, the local climate, and the specific dye used. Thicker yarn may take longer to dry. Its critical to avoid rushing this step, as proper drying helps set the color and ensures the yarn Is ready for weaving.
As the yarn dries, artisans may inspect it for any irregularities, such as color inconsistencies or spots. If any issues are detected, they can be addressed before weaving.
Balling
Before balling, the yarn is often in the form of skeins or hanks. Skeins are loosely wound loops of yarn, and they are typically created during the dying and drying process, as described in the previous section. The skeins may be tied at intervals to prevent tangling.
The artisan preparing the yarn for weaving will typically need a few tools, including a yarn ball winder, a swift, and a clean, flat surface to work on.
A swift is a tool to hold the skien of yarn while it is being wound into a ball. It consists of adjustable arms or pegs that can be expanded or contracted to accommodate different skein sizes. The winding process continues until all of the yarn from the skein is wound into a ball, creating a round, center pull ball of yarn.
​Mapping Graph
The process begins with a concept, painting, or drawing. CAD is often used to start the mapping process, then the artisan would draw the design over onto graph paper each square on the graph paper represents a single knot and specific element in the rugs’ design.
Different colors are often used to represent different yarn colors or materials. Artisans use paint, marker or colored pencils to indicate which colors will be used for each part of the design. Scale and proper alignment of the design is critical to ensure that the rug’s pattern will be symmetrical and visually pleasing.
The mapped graph is reviewed and finalized to ensure accuracy and clarity. Any necessary adjustments or corrections are made at this stage.
Weaving
​
The mapped graph serves as a visual guide for he weavers. It tells them where to place each knot and which color to use, allowing them to replicated the design with precision.
Weaving the Tibetan knot is the fundamental technique in rug making in Nepal and has a different structure than other knots. The weaving process begins with the preparation of the loom, the warp (vertical cotton threads) is stretched tightly between two horizontal beams, the weavers typically sitting 2’ to 3’ feet apart, and using using a temporary metal rod called a gyipshi along the width and in front of the warp wrap the prepared yarn around two of the vertical cotton threads (warp) and around the rod. When the entire row is completed it is hammered tightly with a panja, or a thawa. The loops around the rod are then cut with a churi to create the knot. To give an idea of scale a 100 knots fit in an area approximately the size of a removable flash memory card used in smartphones.
Washing
Washing a newly woven rug is the next step in the process, it is done to remove any residual dirt, oils, or dyes and to bring out the rug’s vibrant colors and softness.
Before washing the rug is inspected for any loose threads or knots that need to be secured. Loose ends are carefully tucked in or repaired.
The rug is gently immersed in a large tub or shallow pool of water. Artisans use mild detergents and soft brushes to agitate the water gently. This process helps to release dirt and oils from the rug’s fibers. After the initial wash, the rug is rinsed thoroughly multiple times and on sides to remove any soap residue. Each rinse is done with clean clear water and a paddle called a pharwa squeezing water through and off of the pile until the water runs clean, this tightens the fibers and makes the sets the color
Drying / Stretching
The washed rug is stretched onto a frame to insure its shape and size, then laid out in the sun to dry. The sun’s natural UV rays help to disinfect, tighten the weave and further brighten the colors. Burning the back side of the rug is also an important step on the journey to a finished rug, a controlled flame burns off loose fibers, secures the knots and establishes the rugs’ durability.
Finishing
​
After the rug is completely dry the finishing process begins. It is a labour intense and meticulous process of hand shearing, using a large flat bladed scissor called a kainchi to neatly cut the pile to its finished height. In some rug designs carving is required, this is a highly skilled task of mindfully carving out design elements, clipping is another aspect of finishing where the edges between colors or where wool meets silk need to be defined. Finally the rugs’ edges are neatly wrapped in a yarn that is appropriate for the design. The rug is complete and ready to go to our client’s home.